In
the autumn of 1865, Powderham Castle in Devon received an unusual and
distinguished guest. Queen Emma of Hawaii was touring England attempting to
garner financial donations and support for Hawaii’s first Anglican Cathedral
when she stopped for a few days at the home of the Earl of Devon. There she met
his daughter, the twenty-seven year old Lady Agnes Elizabeth Courtenay. The two
women became fast friends, and for the rest of Emma’s visit the two maintained
a regular correspondence. These letters were clearly treasured by Agnes, as she
took them with her when she married Charles Wood Viscount Halifax in 1869, and
thus they eventually found their way into our collection.
Emma
Kalanikaumakaamano Nae’a Rooke was born in 1836, two years before Agnes
Courtenay, in Honolulu. Her parents were both High Chiefs directly descended
from royalty, and her ancestors included Hawaii's first king, Kamehameha the
Great. She was adopted and raised by her aunt and uncle, Grace and Thomas
Rooke. Grace was also a High Cheifess, but her father had been a British-born
military advisor to the crown, while Thomas was a British doctor who had moved
to Hawaii in adulthood. As such, Emma was raised in both Hawaiian and English traditions
and spoke both languages fluently.
Emma
was sent to the Royal School, previously called the Chiefs’ Children’s School,
in Honolulu to finish her education. Interestingly, as Hawaii had an elected
monarchy, it was not always certain who the next monarchy would be so this
school aimed to give each of the possible candidates received an equal
education. While studying at the Royal School, Emma fell in love with Alexander
Liholiho. He became King Kamehameha IV in 1855, and married Emma in June of the
following year. They had one son together, Prince Albert Edward, who sadly died
at the age of four in 1862 of a ‘brain fever’.
Inspired
by Emma’s adoptive father, Emma and Alexander dedicated much of their reign to
providing their subjects with accessible and affordable healthcare. After
deciding they wished to establish a hospital in Honolulu, the king and queen
travelled door-to-door throughout the islands asking for donations. As a
result, the Queen’s Medical Centre was opened in 1860. The couple were also
devout Christians, and in 1860 they appealed to the Church of England for
permission to establish the Church of Hawaii. Permission was granted, and Emma
and Alexander were baptised by Anglican vicars in 1862. The king and queen then
decided to fund-raise to build a cathedral dedicated to St Andrew, as well as a
connected school for girls. This was a particular passion of Emma’s, as she had
noticed that, outside of the Royal School, girls were rarely educated to the
same standards as boys and she wished to rectify this. However, a spanner was
thrown in the works when Alexander died suddenly in 1863. Emma spent the next
couple of years in mourning, but eventually decided to persevere with the
project by travelling to England in 1865 to garner support and financial aid
for the cathedral and school.
It’s
unclear when precisely Emma stayed at Powderham Castle, but the letters she
wrote to Agnes are dated between November 1865 and January 1866. Emma clearly received
a warm welcome at Powderham. She wrote early on: “I appreciate deeply the affection and love extended towards me by
yourself and your family, and feel that God has indeed given me true, earnest
friends in Lord Devon and yourself.” Agnes later wrote to invite Emma to
stay with her family over the Christmas period. Emma could not stay with them,
but thanked her greatly for the invite, writing: “if you have ever experienced the warmth of true friendship extended to
you a stranger in a foreign land? You will then have felt my appreciation of
such affection as has been shewen [sic] to
me”.
Much
of the correspondence between Emma and Agnes was written while Emma was the
personal guest of Queen Victoria, and as such Victoria is mentioned frequently in
the letters and even had Agnes’s letters read out to her. Victoria had been
godmother to Emma’s son, yet the two women had never met before Emma’s visit.
Victoria recorded her first meeting with Emma in her diary, where she wrote: “nothing could be nicer or more dignified
than her manner.” Agnes had recommended a maid to Emma, who passed the suggestion
on to Victoria. One of the letters to Agnes deals entirely with this matter.
Emma tells Agnes exactly what Victoria is looking for in a maid, ending with: “She is anxious to have a clever person that
can do anything & every thing [sic] without
much saying.” Not asking much then!
However,
what comes through most in these letters is Emma’s dislike of the English
weather. In a letter of November 11th 1865, she writes: “we have not yet seen the Fog. But it [the
weather] looks black, cloudy, and smoky,
and very cold…I am convinced that the sooner we go out of England the better.” Just
two weeks later, Emma wrote again. She had picked up her husband’s habit of
travelling by night so as to have more daylight hours to work. She notes that
this is perfectly possible in Hawaii, but in England it often leads to one
getting rather wet and cold. She had developed a nasty cough as a result. This
was why she was unable to spend Christmas with the Courtenay family; her doctor
had ordered her to retire to warmer climes to recover. Instead she spent
Christmas in the south of France. Emma seems to have enjoyed the south of
France. She wrote that it was much more similar to the countryside of her
homeland, and that she had “not been
troubled by that noisy cough which I had in England.” Much of her letter
focuses on the people she met while in France. She was especially excited to
meet a descendant of “one of my favourite
Poets,” Sir Walter Scott, whom she found to be perfectly charming.
After
her return to Hawaii, Emma continued to live a remarkable life. After the king
died in 1874, she ran in the election to become the next ruling monarch. Despite
her hatred of the English weather, she remained staunchly pro-British during
the run up to the election, while her opponent was pro-American. She lost the
election in the Legislative Assembly, but such was the level of public support
for Emma that a riot ensued now known as the Honolulu Court House Riot. After
this event, Emma retired from public life, although a seat was always left
empty for her at state occasions in case she changed her mind.
Interestingly,
this collection does contain one further letter from Emma. In 1880, a Mr and
Mrs Mills were on a journey that took them through Hawaii. They were friends
with the Earl of Devon, and, remembering his daughter’s friendship with Emma,
he sent them with a letter of introduction. Emma sent a letter back with a
missionary returning to England in which she recalls happy times in England,
and relates her joy at hearing news of her old friend. She writes that she
heard Agnes and Charles “have a family of
your own” and requests “do send me
photos of yourselves and children.” She relates little of her own news, but
does write that the man carrying the letter for her “has been fortunate enough to witness an eruption of our volcano” and
recommends that Agnes ask him about the experience!
In
spite of her illness, Emma’s fundraising trip to England was a success. She
raised £16,000. Building work started on the Cathedral of St Andrew in 1867 and
St Andrew’s Priory School was opened on Ascension Day of the same year. Both
are still in operation today, and the cathedral is the home of the Bishop of
Hawaii. Emma died in 1885 at the age of forty-nine, while Agnes Wood died in
1919 at the ripe old age of eighty-one.